Mahé with Kids: An Authentic 10-Day Guide Through Calm Beaches, Blackouts and Captain Ronnie

Looking for the authentic Seychelles, far from the usual all-inclusive resorts and genuinely family-friendly? We just got back from an unforgettable 10-day trip to Mahé with our girls, Bebe (5) and Ginni (2).

Between calm bays that look like natural pools, colourful local markets, coconuts cracked open on the beach with a stone, and adventurous excursions to deserted islands, here’s our day-by-day travel diary. If you’re planning a similar itinerary, check out our tips on how topack minimally for a family of 4and our guide onrenting a car abroad with kids.

The Map of Our Itinerary

The map is organised by category (beaches, attractions, sights, things to do): use the map menu to filter layers.

Practical Info & Our Travel Partners

To organise this trip while keeping our style (rental car, self-catering apartment and flexible pace for the little ones), we relied on a few key partners we recommend without hesitation:

Travel Diary: 10 Days in Mahé, Day by Day

Day 1 – Arrival, Prawn Curry and the Blackout Adventure

We land in Mahé and pick up the car straight away at the airport with Travel Mate Car Hire, then head to our H&M Bayview Apartment in Beau Vallon. No time wasted: first mandatory swim at Beau Vallon Beach and a delicious takeaway lunch of prawn curry (coconut shrimp curry) with grilled chicken for the girls.

In the afternoon, just as we’re heading out for groceries and sunset, the car battery decides to die on us! We call the rental company and within minutes the guy and the owner arrive to replace it. Right in the middle of the fix, strong trade winds knock out power across the whole island: we end up lighting the mechanics’ work with our phone torches in pitch darkness! Luckily our apartment had built-in emergency lights. A properly adventurous first night to kick off the holiday!

Day 2 – Port Launay and Meeting Captain Ronnie

We head west towards Port Launay Beach. For lunch we stop at the little cove right before the main beach, facing the lush Therese Island. Here we meetCaptain Ronnie, a friendly local fisherman. Without any pushiness, he offers us a boat crossing to Therese Island; we politely decline for today, but exchange phone numbers. Before saying goodbye, he makes a sweet gesture, gifting Bebe and Ginni two little handmade boats made of leaves and coconut shells.

We spend the afternoon at Port Launay (the protected bay inside the Constance Ephelia resort): remember that in the Seychellesall beaches are public, even those enclosed within the most luxurious resorts. The water here is dead flat, a real paradise for letting the girls swim safely, with a fiery sunset closing the day.

Day 3 – Anse la Mouche, Low Tide and Wild Sea

Morning atAnse la Mouche: at low tide a spectacular sandbank forms right in the middle of the bay. After lunch at Banana Sea Club, we put the girls in the car for their usual nap and drive south to Anse Intendance and Anse Takamaka. The scenery is breathtaking, but in August the south-east trade winds make the waves quite high: beautiful beaches to photograph, but definitely not recommended for swimming with small children.

Around 5pm we head down toAnse Soleiland fall in love with it instantly! Enchanting water and the unique thrill of spotting stingrays swimming just metres from shore.

Day 4 – Anse Soleil in the Morning & Sundowners in Beau Vallon

Having loved it so much, we return to Anse Soleil in the morning: the sea is calm as a pool and the natural shade makes it very comfortable to stop with the kids. We grab takeaway lunch from Lunch Box in Anse la Mouche and enjoy it right under the palm trees.

In the afternoon we head back to Beau Vallon for our scheduled car swap with Travel Mate, then unwind completely on the beach steps from home with a sunset drink and a quiet dinner in the apartment.

Day 5 – Giant Tortoises at the Botanical Garden & Sunset Beach

Morning dedicated to theVictoria Botanical Gardens. The girls finally got to meet the wonderful Aldabra giant tortoises up close: after a few minutes of initial hesitation, they spent a full hour petting them, greeting them and feeding them fresh leaves.

In the afternoon we move toSunset Beach, north of Glacis: it instantly became one of our favourite spots. Very calm sea, fantastic snorkelling among granite boulders, and our Bebe quickly made friends with two local girls, playing together on the sand until evening.

Day 6 – Victoria Market and “Local” Shopping

A walk like true locals through the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market in the centre of Victoria. We stock up on delicious fresh fruit (the local mangoes are something else!) and pick up a few small handmade souvenirs.

In the afternoon Bebe insists on going back to Port Launay to enjoy the iconic swings tied to the branches by the sea. Around sunset we grab a cold SeyBrew beer, juices and snacks from the nearby market for a barefoot sundowner on the almost-empty beach.

Day 7 – Waves at Anse la Mouche & Home-Cooked Creole Dinner

We return to Anse la Mouche, Giugi’s favourite beach. The water is so shallow and gently sloping that it lets the girls play in total safety: little Ginni gains so much confidence she takes off her armbands to jump the small waves on her own!

We head back to the apartment a bit earlier than usual for a special appointment: our host at H&M Bayview came to visit and cooked us a homemade traditional Creole dinner that was simply out of this world.

Day 8 – Castaways on Therese Island with Captain Ronnie

We get back in touch with Captain Ronnie for a private boat transfer toTherese Island. He drops us on a completely deserted bay: besides us, only 2 or 3 scattered couples along kilometres of white sand, coral and untouched jungle.

Even though the open sea is a bit choppy, we find a protected natural pool perfect for snorkelling among hundreds of colourful fish just two metres from shore. A small adventure on the way back: Captain Ronnie runs a bit late for the 4pm pickup, but another fisherman from his group comes to collect the “last castaways”. The sunset boat ride back, with a stop in the middle of the sea to feed the fish with the girls, was pure magic.

Day 9 – Shopping in Victoria and Coconuts on the Beach

A quick stop at Domaine de Val des Prés (Craft Village) looking for a wooden souvenir for our travel wall at home, but the place feels a bit too touristy and overpriced. We decide to head back to the colourful Victoria market instead for some authentic shopping and to haggle over spices (Giugi’s an expert by now!).

One last wonderful swim at Sunset Beach. As we relax, a coconut spontaneously falls from a palm just steps away! We manage to crack it open ourselves with a rock on the shore: an enormous satisfaction and a truly unforgettable zero-mile snack to close out our time on the island.

Day 10 – Emirates Flight and… Off to the Dolomites!

Up at dawn, goodbyes to our wonderful host, car drop-off with Travel Mate Car Hire at the airport, and flight home with Emirates. Despite the long hours, the family-focused onboard service is always flawless.

Arriving in Malpensa, the JetPark Premium shuttle gets us back to our car in no time. Heading home to Genoa? Not a chance! We load the bags and set off straight away for another 4 hours to Val di Funes in South Tyrol! Luckily Bebe and Ginni fall into a deep sleep just minutes into the motorway…

Practical Tips for Travelling to the Seychelles with Kids

• Managing the Wind in August:The south-east trade winds make the southern beaches (like Anse Intendance and Anse Takamaka) stunning to look at, but quite choppy. Stick to the protected bays on the west and north-west coast (Port Launay, Anse Soleil, Sunset Beach) for calm, wave-free, kid-safe water.
• Local Takeaways:To keep costs down and taste authentic Creole cuisine, look for takeaway kiosks: rice, lentil dal, Creole chicken or fresh fish at affordable prices and generous portions.
• Resort Beach Access:Don’t be afraid to access beaches hosted by large resorts (like Four Seasons or Constance Ephelia): in the Seychelles all beaches are public and free to access!
• Travel Medicine Kit:Before leaving with kids, organise your medicine supply well. Check our complete checklist for achildren’s travel first-aid kitso you don’t forget the essentials.